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Crochet Lilac Lace Cardigan

Leyla
Leyla
Jul 31, 2025 08:57 AM
Crochet Lilac Lace Cardigan

The Crochet Lilac Lace Cardigan is a charming and elegant clothing piece that adds a touch of femininity to any outfit. With its delicate lace pattern and lovely lilac color, it is perfect for a casual day out or a special occasion. This cardigan is not only stylish but also versatile, making it easy to layer over a simple top or dress. The intricacy of the crochet work gives it a unique and thoughtful look that will surely make you stand out. Whether you're running errands or attending a brunch with friends, this cardigan is a wonderful choice to elevate your outfit and keep you cozy in style.

Materials

Suggested Crochet Hook Size H-8 (5mm) or hook needed to meet gauge, referred to as “larger hook” AND Size G-7 (4.5mm) crochet hook, for trim only, referred to as “smaller hook”.
Yarn Needle for weaving ends.
Buttons 6 (7, 7, 7, 7, 8) size 1/2″ round buttons.
Sewing thread and sewing needle optional, for sewing on buttons.

Gauge
Using larger hook and working in stitch pattern, 19 sts for 12 rows measures approximately 4 x 4″.

Special Stitches

Double Crochet Crossed Stitch (Cross): Skip 2 single crochets, double crochet in next single crochet, chain 1, working in front of that double crochet, work a double crochet in the first skipped stitch of the 3 single crochet used for the cross. Do not work around the first double crochet, enclosing it. Push the first double crochet out of the way, if necessary. You want it to stand alone and the double crochets are literally crossed, one on top of the other. The center skipped stitch is left unworked.

Other Abbreviations

This lace cardigan crochet pattern is written in US crochet terminology.

ch=chain; dc=double crochet; dec=decrease; RS=right side; rep=repeat; sc=single crochet; sk=skip; sl=slip; sp(s)=space(s); st(s)=stitch(es).
Since there are so many sizes, you may want to print out the pattern and circle only those numbers that apply to the size you are making.
The numbers at the end of an instruction, after a colon, indicate the stitch count for that row.

The decrease rows seemed to sort of meld together, making them difficult for me and my testers to discern sometimes. I found it easier when I wrote whether it was a decrease at the beginning or a decrease at the end. I added little notes on each decrease row. I’ve left these instructions in there because I thought it might make it easier for you as well. I don’t normally do this but it really helped this time.

Crochet Pattern Instructions

Crochet Lilac Lace Cardigan

Note: I made the first row in the back horizontal bar of the chain for a cleaner edge since there is no additional trim added after finishing. It’s not absolutely necessary, but it looks nicer. If you prefer foundation single crochet, that will work as well. Just make the number of single crochet indicated in the stitch count at the end of the row. Or, you could go ahead and crochet the trim as done on the armholes and center front.

Row 1: With larger hook (see Materials above), ch 162 (180, 201, 219, 237, 261), sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch, turn: 161 (179, 200, 218, 236, 260) sc.

Note: Even after several rows, it’s not unusual for the width to be slightly more than anticipated. For instance, I made the size 34″ but it started out as a 36″ at the hem. After the stitch pattern was well established, though, the width reduced to 34″. It’s a combination of skipping a stitch between the double crochets of the cross and the weight of the garment pulling it down, increasing the length and reducing the width. The first row may or may not remain at the wider amount but, that’s completely okay, right? It gives a little bit more ease at the high hip/lower waist. It’s a win-win.

Row 2 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), sk same sc, *cross (see Special Stitches above) worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last sc, dc in last sc, turn: 53 (59, 66, 72, 78, 86) cross.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 161 (179, 200, 218, 236, 260) sc.
Note: The numbers below are correct. The total length from shoulder to hem increases, but the armhole doesn’t increase at the same rate as the body height.
Rep rows 2-3 until 32 (34, 38, 34, 38, 40) total rows have been completed from beginning, ending with a cross row. Do not fasten off.

Crochet Lilac Lace Cardigan

First Front

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * 9 (11, 12, 13, 15, 17) times more, sc in next dc, turn: 32 (38, 41, 44, 50, 56) sc.
Row 2: Ch 3, sk same sc, *cross worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last sc, dc in last sc, turn: 10 (12, 13, 14, 16, 18) cross.
Row 3 (dec at end): Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * up to last cross, sc in next dc, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, turn, leaving last dc unworked: 30 (36, 39, 42, 48, 54) sc.

Row 4 (dec at beg): Ch 3, sk same sc and sk next sc, *cross worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last sc, dc in last sc, turn: 9 (11, 12, 13, 15, 17) cross.
Rep previous 2 rows 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4) times more: 6 (8, 9, 10, 12, 13) cross on final row.

Row 11 (11, 11, 11, 11, 13): Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 20 (26, 29, 32, 38, 41) sc.
For sizes M, 1X, and 2X ONLY: work the following 2 rows (no decreasing). For all other sizes, proceed to Neckline.

Next row: Ch 3, sk same sc, *cross (see Special Stitches above) worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last sc, dc in last sc, turn: 8 (10, 12) cross.
Next row: Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 26 (32, 38) sc.

Neckline

Row 1: Ch 3, sk same sc, *cross worked across next 3 sc, rep from * until 3 (3, 4, 5, 5, 5) cross made in total, dc in next sc, turn, leaving remaining sc unworked: 3 (3, 4, 5, 5, 5) cross.

Row 2 (dec at beg): Ch 1, sk first dc, sc in next dc, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 9 (9, 12, 15, 15, 15) sc.

Row 3 (dec at end): Ch 3, sk same sc, *cross worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last 2 sc, sk 1 sc, dc in last sc, turn: 2 (2, 3, 4, 4, 4) cross.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 8 (8, 11, 14, 14, 14) sc.

Row 5: Ch 3, sk same sc, *cross (see Special Stitches above) worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last sc, dc in last sc, turn: 2 (2, 3, 4, 4, 4) cross.
Work previous 2 rows until 23 (25, 25, 27, 27, 27) total rows of Armhole have been completed, ending with a sc row. Fasten off.

Back

Row 1: Return to the last row before the Armhole began, sk 5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 7) ch-1 sps, join yarn with sl st in very next dc (the one immediately after the last ch-1 sp), ch 1, sc in same dc as joining, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * 22 (24, 26, 29, 31, 35) times more, sc in next dc, turn, leaving remaining sts unworked: 71 (77, 83, 92, 98, 110) sc.

Row 2: Ch 3, sk same sc, *cross worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last sc, dc in last sc, turn: 23 (25, 27, 30, 32, 36) cross.
Row 3 (dec on both sides): Ch 1, sk first dc, sc in next dc, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last cross, sc in next dc, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, turn, leaving last dc unworked: 67 (73, 79, 88, 94, 106) sc.

Row 4 (dec on both sides): Ch 3, sk same sc and sk next sc, *cross worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last 2 sc, sk 1 sc, dc in last sc, turn: 21 (23, 25, 28, 30, 34) cross.

Work previous 2 rows 2 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 3) times more: 17 (19, 21, 24, 26, 28) cross on final row.
Next row: Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 53 (59, 65, 74, 80, 86) sc.
Next row: Ch 3, sk same sc, *cross worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last sc, dc in last sc, turn: 17 (19, 21, 24, 26, 28) cross.

Work previous 2 rows until 18 (20, 20, 22, 22, 22) total rows of Armhole have been completed, ending with a cross row. Do not fasten off.

First Shoulder

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * 2 (2, 3, 4, 4, 4) times more, sc in next dc, turn: 11 (11, 14, 17, 17, 17) sc.
Row 2: Ch 3, sk same sc, *cross worked across next 3 sc, rep from * until 3 (3, 4, 5, 5, 5) cross made in total, dc in next sc, turn: 3 (3, 4, 5, 5, 5) cross.
Row 3 (dec at end): Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * up to last cross, sc in next dc, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, turn, leaving last dc unworked: 9 (9, 12, 15, 15, 15) sc.

Row 4 (dec at beg): Ch 3, sk same sc and sk next sc, *cross worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last sc, dc in last sc, turn: 2 (2, 3, 4, 4, 4) cross.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 8 (8, 11, 14, 14, 14) sc. Fasten off.

Other Shoulder

Row 1: Return to the last row before the First Shoulder began, sk 11 (13, 13, 14, 16, 18) ch-1 sps, join yarn with sl st in very next dc (the one immediately after the last ch-1 sp), ch 1, sc in same dc as joining, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 11 (11, 14, 17, 17, 17) sc.
Row 2: Ch 3, sk same sc, *cross worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last sc, dc in last sc, turn: 3 (3, 4, 5, 5, 5) cross.

Row 3 (dec at beg): Ch 1, sk first dc, sc in next dc, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 9 (9, 12, 15, 15, 15) sc.

Row 4 (dec at end): Ch 3, sk same sc, *cross worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last 2 sc, sk 1 sc, dc in last sc, turn: 2 (2, 3, 4, 4, 4) cross.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 8 (8, 11, 14, 14, 14) sc. Fasten off.

Other Front

Row 1: Return to the last row before the Back began, sk 5 (5, 6, 7, 7, 7) ch-1 sps, join with sl st in very next dc (the one immediately after the last ch-1 sp), ch 1, sc in same dc as joining, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 32 (38, 41, 44, 50, 56) sc.

Row 2: Ch 3, sk same sc, *cross (see Special Stitches above) worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last sc, dc in last sc, turn: 10 (12, 13, 14, 16, 18) cross.
Row 3 (dec at beg): Ch 1, sk first dc, sc in next dc, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 30 (36, 39, 42, 48, 54) sc.

Row 4 (dec at end): Ch 3, sk same sc, *cross worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last 2 sc, sk 1 sc, dc in last sc, turn: 9 (11, 12, 13, 15, 17) cross.
Rep previous 2 rows 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4) times more: 6 (8, 9, 10, 12, 13) cross on final row.

Row 11 (11, 11, 11, 11, 13): Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 20 (26, 29, 32, 38, 41) sc, fasten off.
For sizes M, 1X, and 2X ONLY: work the following 2 rows (no decreasing). For all other sizes, proceed to Neckline.

Next row: Ch 3, sk same sc, *cross (see Special Stitches above) worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last sc, dc in last sc, turn: 8 (10, 12) cross.
Next row: Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 26 (32, 38) sc.

Neckline

Row 1: Sk 9 (15, 15, 15, 21, 24) sc, join with sl st in next sc, ch 3, sk same sc, *cross worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last sc, dc in last sc, turn: 3 (3, 4, 5, 5, 5) cross.

Row 2 (dec at end): Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * up to last cross, sc in next dc, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, turn, leaving last dc unworked: 9 (9, 12, 15, 15, 15) sc.

Row 3 (dec at beg): Ch 3, sk same sc and sk next sc, *cross worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last sc, dc in last sc, turn: 2 (2, 3, 4, 4, 4) cross.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in same dc, *sc in next dc, sc in ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, rep from * to last dc, sc in last dc, turn: 8 (8, 11, 14, 14, 14) sc.
Row 5: Ch 3, sk same sc, *cross (see Special Stitches above) worked across next 3 sc, rep from * to last sc, dc in last sc, turn: 2 (2, 3, 4, 4, 4) cross.
Work previous 2 rows until 23 (25, 25, 27, 27, 27) total rows of Armhole have been completed, ending with a sc row. Fasten off.

Seaming

With RS facing each other, with yarn needle, seam the front and back shoulders together on both sides.

Armhole Trim

Round 1: With RS facing and smaller hook (see Materials above), join yarn with sl st at bottom center of armhole, ch 1, sc evenly around, sl st to first sc.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, sl st to first sc, fasten off.

Rep for other armhole.

Button Band Trim

Row 1: With RS facing and smaller hook, join yarn with sl st at the hem point of one of the fronts to begin working along the center edge, around the neck and down the other center edge (stitches aren’t worked along the hem). Ch 1, sc evenly up the center front, around the neck and along the other center front, adjusting your stitches where necessary by adding or removing stitches to conform to curves, turn.

Row 2: Starting at about 7.5 (8, 8, 8.5, 8.5, 9)” above the hem, mark 6 (7, 7, 7, 7, 8) evenly spaced buttonhole positions on the actual Right Front Side of the cardigan. Ch 1, sc around, adjusting stitches as necessary for curves, except at buttonhole positions, work: [ch 1, sk 2 sc], turn. Test your button to see if this works for you and adjust as necessary.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc around, adjusting stitches as necessary for curves, except at buttonholes, work [2 sc in ch-1 sp]. Test your buttons again to make certain the button hole matches. Fasten off.

Finishing

Tip: I try to separate the plies of the yarn in order to create the thread used for sewing on buttons whenever possible, unless the yarn is too weak when separated. At least you know that it will match your garment. If it’s not possible, you’ll need matching sewing thread.

Sew on the buttons adjacent to the button holes. Weave in all ends securely. Block as desired.

Schematic

Crochet Lilac Lace Cardigan

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