Crochet Far Away Fingerless Gloves: A Unique DIY Adventure

Discover the enchanting world of Crochet Far Away Fingerless Gloves, where creativity and practicality intertwine to create a stunning accessory. These gloves are not your ordinary hand warmers; they are a work of art that will transport you to distant lands with their intricate patterns and delicate stitches.

As you crochet each stitch, you will feel a sense of adventure and wanderlust, as if you are embarking on a journey to far-off destinations. Immerse yourself in the captivating process of crafting Crochet Far Away Fingerless Gloves, and let your imagination run wild. With every loop and twist of the yarn, you will be transported to exotic places, where vibrant colors and rich textures come together to form a masterpiece. These gloves are more than just a fashion statement; they are a symbol of your creativity and individuality. As you wear them, you will feel a sense of empowerment and confidence, knowing that you have created something truly unique and extraordinary. So, grab your crochet hook and embark on a crochet adventure like no other with Crochet Far Away Fingerless Gloves.

Pattern

Notes:
My gauge was 42 hdc = 8in/20cm. My wrist warmers/fingerless gloves were 9in (23cm) long - around 7in (18cm) for the main section and 1in (2.5cm) each for the top and bottom borders. Don't worry if you can't make gauge; just make the size that fits you. I have only worked out the number of stitches for a large size. However, you can make a smaller/different size if you're not afraid of a little arithmetic.

Calculating Increases: Divide the number of sts on the previous round by 3, subtract 1 for the number of stitches between each increase.

Calculating Decreases: Divide the number of sts on the previous round by 3, subtract 2 for the number of stitches between each decrease.

All increases and decreases (apart from the increase in round 18 if you don't have a multiple of 6 sts) are optional - if you're making these for yourself, do what fits you best. Also, feel free to add or subtract rounds between Round 5 and Round 11 to get the length you would like.

The left and right wrist warmers (right and left if you're left-handed) are slightly different. Follow the right/left guidelines depending on which one you're making.
You will need:

• Yarn A: around 137 yards/125m Sport weight with a 3.75 mm (F) hook (could try dk with a 4mm (G) hook). I used Adriafil Sierra Andina in grey.
• Yarn B: around 44 yards/40m 4ply with 3mm hook. I used Rowan Wool Cotton 4ply in pink.
• Needle to sew in ends.

Stitches Used (In US Terms Throughout): sc, hdc, dc, trc, foundation hdc (fhdc), 3rd loop hdc, chainless starting dc, dc mini cluster, picot.
dc mini cluster: yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull up loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through 3 loops.
picot: ch3, sl st into first ch.

Main Section

With Yarn A and a 3.75mm (F) hook:

Foundation: 42 (or a multiple of 3 that fits around your arm) fhdc, join with a sl st to make a circle (make sure it doesn't twist).
Round 1: ch1, hdc in the first hdc and in each st across. Join with sl st to the first hdc. (42)
Round 2: ch1, hdc in the 3rd loop of each hdc on the previous round. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (42)
Round 3: ch1, normal hdc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (42)
Round 4: ch2, (does not count as st on this or any other row) dc in the 3rd loop of each hdc around. Join with sl st to the first dc. (42)

Round 5: ch2, dc in each st around, join (42)
Round 6: (decrease) ch2, *dec over 1st 2 sts, dc in next 12 sts* three times (39)
Round 7: ch2. dc in each st around, join. (39)
Round 8: (decrease) ch2, *dec over 1st 2 sts, dc in next 11 sts* three times, join (36)
Rounds 9, 10: ch2, dc in each st around, join. (36)
Round 11: (increase) ch2, *2 dcs into first st, dc in next 11 sts* three times, join (39)

Round 12: ch1, hdc in each st around. (39)
Round 13: (increase), ch1, working in 3rd loops, *2 hdc into first st, hdc in next 12 sts* three times, join (42)
Round 14: ch1, normal hdc in each st around, join (42)
Round 15 Right: ch3, trc in first 33 sts, ch 8, tc in last st, join into first tc (42) (leave 8 sts unworked for thumbhole. If you want a smaller thumbhole, reduce the number of chs and the number of unworked sts.)
Round 15 Left: ch3, trc, ch 8, tc in remaining sts, join to first tc (42) (leave 8 sts unworked for thumbhole)
Round 16: ch1, hdc in each st around (work into bumps of chains for neat finish) (42)
Round 17: ch1, hdc in 3rd loop of each hdc on the previous round. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (42)
Round 18: ch1, normal hdc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (42) If this row is not a multiple of six, increase by three.
Round 19: ch1, hdc in 3rd loop of each hdc on the previous round. Join with a sl st to the first hdc. (42)
Round 20: ch1, sc in each st around. Join, bind off & weave in ends.

Thumbhole

With Yarn A and a 3.75mm (F) hook:

Left: join in the bottom right corner of the thumbhole (near seam). Work 8 sc across the bottom, 3 sc along trc, 8 sc across the top in ch sts, 3 sc along trc, join with sl st into the first sc. Bind off & weave in ends.

Right: join in the top left corner of the thumbhole (near seam). Work 8 sc across the top in ch sts, 3 sc along trc, 8 sc along the bottom, 3 sc along trc, join with sl st into the first sc. Bind off & weave in ends.

Top Border

With Yarn B:
With 3.75mm hook, join Yarn B with a sl st into the 3rd loop of hdc from round 19. Sl st in each 3rd loop around (42 sl sts). The photo below illustrates where to join your yarn: (please note I'm left-handed so this may look a bit backwards to you!)

With 3mm hook:
Round 1: Chainless starting dc, ch1, dc in the same st, skip 2 sl sts, *(dc, ch1 dc) in the same sl st, skip 2 sl sts* 13 times, join with sl st to starting dc.
Round 2: sl st into ch space, ch2, dc (counts as first dc mini cluster), ch1, dc mini cluster, *(dc mini cluster, ch1, dc mini cluster) in next ch space* 13 times, join with sl st into the top of the first dc.
Round 3: sl st into ch1 space, 5 dcs into next ch1 space, *sl st into next ch1 space, 5 dc into next ch1 space* 6 times, join with sl st into the first sl st.
Round 4: in back loops, sc in first dc, (ch3, sc,) 4 times, skip sl st, *sc, (ch3, sc) 4 times, skip sl st* six times, join to the first sc, bind off and weave in ends.

Bottom Border

With Yarn B:
With a 3.75mm hook, with seam facing you, sl st in the 3rd hdc loop of foundation hdc in each st around (42 sl sts).

With 3mm hook:
Round 1: Chainless starting dc, 3 dc into the same sl st, skip 2 sts, *4 dc into sl st, skip 2 sts* 13 more times, join with sl st into the starting dc.
Round 2: sl st into the second dc, sl st into space between the 2nd and 3rd dcs. Chainless starting dc, 3 dc into the same space, *4 dc into the next gap between the 2nd and 3rd dcs* 13 times, join.
Round 3: sl st into the second dc, sl st into the space between the 2nd and 3rd dcs. Ch 1, *(2hdcs, picot, 2hdcs) into the space between the 2nd and 3rd dcs* 14 times, join, bind off, weave in ends.

Finishing

I didn't block my wrist warmers and don't think they need it. I think I would only block a pair if the yarn turned out scratchy when crocheted up.